63′ Corvette AMT909 Special Instructions



Click below to download these Instructions in a printable PDF format:

Printable Instructions

Wheels/Axles Modifications




Shorten rear axle by cutting 3/8 in. (.375 in.) off one of the axles in the kit.
(The starting length of the axle is 2.045″, finished length is 1.670″)

With two inner wheels;

1: Drill all the way through with a #52 drill bit (.063 in.) to allow axle to pass

through as it will press into the spindle of the mag wheel (outer).

2: Cut off spindle on the back side of the inner wheel as in picture.

This can be done with a small saw blade on an exacto knife handle, or with a lathe if you are lucky enough to have one.

1: Glue the inner wheel to the back of the spindle of the mag wheel.

*Note, insert axle while gluing to ensure axle hole alignment.

2: Install two Pro Street rear tires on wheels.

*Note, one side of the tire has a larger diameter opening to insure proper fit on wheels



Body Modifications



Open up just the very bottom (front and back) of the rear fender openings just enough to allow clearance for the Pro Street tires.

*Note, see picture below

Cut a template when finished with the first opening to match the other side.

This picture shows how the tire should fit in the wheel openings.



Chassis Modifications

*Glue in all 4 axle blocks (as per kit instruction kit).

Using the wheel/tire combination previously assembled, cut out the chassis forward and rearward of the axle blocks area until tires clear when back of wheel contacts the chassis. Once again, make a template from the first side to match cutouts on the second side.

Using an exacto saw (must use thin bladed saw for minimal material removal);

1: Cut squarely along frame to just inside of the exhaust pipe (as pictured).

2: Cut squarely, flush with the front of the muffler, to a point exactly in line (squarely) with first cut.

3: Cut squarely between the ends of these two cuts to remove section of chassis.

With the sectioned out piece of the chassis, make a parallel cut to the previous cut just on the outside of the exhaust pipe and all the way to the back of the sectioned piece.

Allign, clamp, and glue this narrowed section back into chassis.

After first side is completely set up repeat steps 3-5 on other side.

*At this point you may want to do any filling and detailing to make the chassis look more realistic.

*Finished width between axle blocks should be 1 9/32″ (1.281 in.).

For the front axle, drill a third hole directly above existing holes in blocks with a #51 drill bit (.067 in.) to lower the front of the car.

Install rear axle in top holes in blocks and front axle in two new upper holes for your Pro Street look, (almost on the ground).
*Note; with axle higher in chassis you will have to drill through the engine block as per instructions in engine/header modifications later.



Interior Modifications

Cut out both wheel well areas from interior as pictured for tire clearence.

To make the wheel tubs for the interior, I found 1/2″ wide scotch tape spools (after removing the centers) were the perfect diameter.

The upper item in this picture is a segment of the scotch tape spool cut and fitted to the interior.

The lower item is a template made for the sides of the tubs.

These two photos show tubs being assembled/installed in the interior.

Interior finished.



Engine/Headers Modifications


I reversed the headers left and right to have them exit lower to the frame.
Doing this required trimming the ends of the header tubes flush with frame to clear the body.

If you previously drilled third axle hole to lower front of car, at this time once engine is firmly glued in place,cross drill through front of engine block to allow axle to pass through.




These pictures show how low this Pro Street version sits and how the monster Pro Street tires fit from below.



Complete with Decals




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